Vesper had to go to a wedding in the country, so I'm left alone again (such is my lot) until Saturday.
I decided to take in a Chinese Acrobatics show last night. It was held in an ancient theater down a dubious alley downtown, but the show was amazing. I'm sure you've seen this sort of thing on TV, but nothing prepared me for the real live spectacle. Cirque du Soliel blows compared to this.
There were girls who twirled saucers at the ends of sticks (four in EACH HAND) while they danced and did flips. There were boys jumping through hoops backwards, feet first. There were girls who could sit on their own heads and stand on their own shoulders while they balanced another girl doing the same while balancing full wine glasses on the ends of sticks gripped in their teeth. There were uncyclists who flipped metal bowls onto each other's heads with their feet. Two and three at a time. Total madness.
Now I ask you, why is it that China doesn't win every single gymnastics event at every Olympics? They must do really well at least, right?
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
First Impressions of China
When the taxi pulled out of the Beijing airport and onto the expressway, several things went through my mind.
1.) Wow, it's nice and cool! (only 85 degrees)
2.) Wow, this road is smooth!
3.) Look at all the space!
4.) Nobody is honking, and we aren't slamming on the brakes every three seconds!
5.) The air! I can breathe! (kinda, Beijing is still very polluted)
6.) This is paradise!
Coming from being in urban Vietnam for a few months, maybe anywhere seems like the Garden of Eden. But i have to say that China seems much more clean and civil than its savage neighbor to the south. I think it takes leaving Vietnam to really grasp how primitive it is.
The Olympics are coming next year, and everything in Beijing is getting a facelift. Entire sections of the Forbidden City are draped in scaffolding, and even Mao's tomb is under renovation so you can't go in. I'm a little disappointed I can't go see Chairman Mao, but i doubt there's a complaint box.
The tourist sights might be ready for the throngs next summer, but I tell you- the people ARE NOT. No one speaks a lick of English. The taxi drivers really need help with even basic English. I got in a cab and said "Tiananmen Square" and the driver looked at me like i was covered in ants. Come on, man, it's the single most important place in all of China! People are going to want to go there, trust me.
Even when you have the directions written in Chinese, the drivers still don't know where they're going. I was dropped off miles away from my preferred destination yesterday. These guys better get it together soon, or else it's going to be a total mess here come next summer.
One thing's for sure , the Beijing Olympics mascots are rad! Good job!
1.) Wow, it's nice and cool! (only 85 degrees)
2.) Wow, this road is smooth!
3.) Look at all the space!
4.) Nobody is honking, and we aren't slamming on the brakes every three seconds!
5.) The air! I can breathe! (kinda, Beijing is still very polluted)
6.) This is paradise!
Coming from being in urban Vietnam for a few months, maybe anywhere seems like the Garden of Eden. But i have to say that China seems much more clean and civil than its savage neighbor to the south. I think it takes leaving Vietnam to really grasp how primitive it is.
The Olympics are coming next year, and everything in Beijing is getting a facelift. Entire sections of the Forbidden City are draped in scaffolding, and even Mao's tomb is under renovation so you can't go in. I'm a little disappointed I can't go see Chairman Mao, but i doubt there's a complaint box.
The tourist sights might be ready for the throngs next summer, but I tell you- the people ARE NOT. No one speaks a lick of English. The taxi drivers really need help with even basic English. I got in a cab and said "Tiananmen Square" and the driver looked at me like i was covered in ants. Come on, man, it's the single most important place in all of China! People are going to want to go there, trust me.
Even when you have the directions written in Chinese, the drivers still don't know where they're going. I was dropped off miles away from my preferred destination yesterday. These guys better get it together soon, or else it's going to be a total mess here come next summer.
One thing's for sure , the Beijing Olympics mascots are rad! Good job!
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
The Great Wall of China
I'll talk about my thoughts on China soon. It's been a whirlwind the past few days. Today Vesper and I went to Simitai, a remote and wild section of the Great Wall.
There aren't many tourists here as there are at theme-park-esque Badaling. One of the reasons is the dizzying heights and the seventy degree inclines. I wasn't prepared for how truly amazing the Wall is. One part of the Simatai wall follows the crest of an extremely jagged mountain ridge. I can just hear the planners talking about where the wall should go-
planners: "the wall should go along those little bumpy hills down there."
emperor: "nah! that won't work...Where is the highest, most jaggedly, precarious, ridiculous place we can build this...oh- over there! Brilliant!"
And Vesper and I hiked the whole thing. Up to where they wouldn't let us, of course. Well, a little past.
We had a little Beijing duck tonight here back in the city, and sleep comes soon.
There aren't many tourists here as there are at theme-park-esque Badaling. One of the reasons is the dizzying heights and the seventy degree inclines. I wasn't prepared for how truly amazing the Wall is. One part of the Simatai wall follows the crest of an extremely jagged mountain ridge. I can just hear the planners talking about where the wall should go-
planners: "the wall should go along those little bumpy hills down there."
emperor: "nah! that won't work...Where is the highest, most jaggedly, precarious, ridiculous place we can build this...oh- over there! Brilliant!"
And Vesper and I hiked the whole thing. Up to where they wouldn't let us, of course. Well, a little past.
We had a little Beijing duck tonight here back in the city, and sleep comes soon.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Big Red
Since they are soon to be ruling the earth, I suppose I should go now to meet our new masters. If the bastards (did i say that?) at the Chinese embassy get me my visa today as they said, I will be on the 10 AM flight from Hanoi to Beijing tomorrow to meet up with Vesper. We are going to rage the 'jing, as she put it.
Stay tuned.
Stay tuned.
Thursday, May 24, 2007
Hot Springs
This was a while ago, but I wanted to write about it before I forget about it.
A few weeks ago when it was raining in Hue, My and I set out to find some hot springs in the jungle that her cousin was talking about. We found them at the foot of a mountain about 40 km outside Hue.
The place was deserted except for us, and was set in a wild bamboo thicket at the foot of a waterfall. With rain falling on my head, I submerged myself in the warm water up to my eyes and swam along the river bank. I felt like a special ops jungle commando, hunting Charlie.... or some other guy who swims with a knife in his teeth.
I found out that day that one of My's favorite movies is Rambo, believe it or not. She thinks it's hilarious. We re-enacted the scene where Rambo camouflages himself as part of the riverbank in order to ambush the poor vietnamese guy. My was the vietnamese guy.
A few weeks ago when it was raining in Hue, My and I set out to find some hot springs in the jungle that her cousin was talking about. We found them at the foot of a mountain about 40 km outside Hue.
The place was deserted except for us, and was set in a wild bamboo thicket at the foot of a waterfall. With rain falling on my head, I submerged myself in the warm water up to my eyes and swam along the river bank. I felt like a special ops jungle commando, hunting Charlie.... or some other guy who swims with a knife in his teeth.
I found out that day that one of My's favorite movies is Rambo, believe it or not. She thinks it's hilarious. We re-enacted the scene where Rambo camouflages himself as part of the riverbank in order to ambush the poor vietnamese guy. My was the vietnamese guy.
Moron-ah
The drug dealers down by the lake in Hanoi would sell a lot more pot if they learned how to say it right. I've heard "manna...you!...manna?", "Mah-wah-nee-a", and my personal favorite, "hey, you want moron-ah?"
All set with moron-ah, thanks.
All set with moron-ah, thanks.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Home
This morning i was enjoying my customary baguette and coffee, when suddenly I heard Willie Nelson singing "They all Went to Mexico" on the stereo. And for the first time in five months, i was intensely homesick for America. It's amazing how only half a bar of any Willie Nelson song can speak so directly to one's soul.
It's not enough to make me hop a plane home though. Gotta get my ass to China on Sunday. Like another great southern songwriter said-
These ain't my clothes I'm wearing,
and this old road goes on forever.
It's not enough to make me hop a plane home though. Gotta get my ass to China on Sunday. Like another great southern songwriter said-
These ain't my clothes I'm wearing,
and this old road goes on forever.
Americans and War
I was reading a war book one day (Dispatches by Michael Herr-great read) when My piped up and said, "You like war. Americans love war."
I was indignant at first. "No we aren't! We like freedom... and stuff. Some of us are great people."
"Then why are you always at war with somebody?"
I wanted to say, "because the people who remember World War II aren't dead yet, the entire country has yet to come to grips with what happened in Vietnam, and since the end of the Cold War, we've been itching to get our greedy hands all over Asia, and since 2001 we finally have an excuse."- but i don't think she'd accept that answer.
I had to agree with her. In some way, somehow, we are constantly either physically or financially involved in a war.
Even things that aren't even actually wars. Like the "war on drugs" or the "war on poverty". Why is everything always a "war"? The term implies a righteous and fixed position, from where a clear and delineated enemy shall be smitten. The word is too simple, and really- what actually came out of the "war on drugs"? Didn't stop meth.
The war in Vietnam was lost largely because one country started a war against another country without even bothering to learn about who they were fighting. It is a valuable and overlooked lesson these days.
I'd like to suggest a different terminology for the "war on terrorism", and therefore perhaps a different strategy: "the investigation into finding the solution to the grudges of all people so that we don't have to kill each other anymore."
Or is that too long? Maybe an acronym?
I was indignant at first. "No we aren't! We like freedom... and stuff. Some of us are great people."
"Then why are you always at war with somebody?"
I wanted to say, "because the people who remember World War II aren't dead yet, the entire country has yet to come to grips with what happened in Vietnam, and since the end of the Cold War, we've been itching to get our greedy hands all over Asia, and since 2001 we finally have an excuse."- but i don't think she'd accept that answer.
I had to agree with her. In some way, somehow, we are constantly either physically or financially involved in a war.
Even things that aren't even actually wars. Like the "war on drugs" or the "war on poverty". Why is everything always a "war"? The term implies a righteous and fixed position, from where a clear and delineated enemy shall be smitten. The word is too simple, and really- what actually came out of the "war on drugs"? Didn't stop meth.
The war in Vietnam was lost largely because one country started a war against another country without even bothering to learn about who they were fighting. It is a valuable and overlooked lesson these days.
I'd like to suggest a different terminology for the "war on terrorism", and therefore perhaps a different strategy: "the investigation into finding the solution to the grudges of all people so that we don't have to kill each other anymore."
Or is that too long? Maybe an acronym?
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Army Museum
The Army Museum in Hanoi houses artifacts from Vietnam's victories over the Chinese, French, Mongols, Japanese, and Americans.
The Mongols tried four times to assimilate Vietnam into the empire. Although they ruled virtually every square inch of Asia, the Mongols never occupied Vietnam for even one day. The last attempt was at Bach Dang river in 1288, where the Mongols attacked from upriver. After being severely battered by the Vietnamese, the Mongols tried to escape downriver to the sea, but the Vietnamese had planted thousands of sharpened stakes in the riverbed near the mouth of the river. The Mongol ships were stopped, and the Vietnamese battered the Mongols into oblivion. Some of the stakes are on exhibit in the museum.
Outside the Museum is a giant sculpture made from the twisted, burnt remnants of downed French and American planes and weaponry. It is a monumental, ominous, victorious display. It is as if to say, "Won't you ever learn? However big you are, we will TAKE YOU DOWN."
He who approaches with sword drawn shall by the sword perish.
Things I miss about My
1.) The first thing she does when she enters the house is take her pants off. It's just how she rolls.
2.) She sings vietnamese love songs in the shower.
3.) She is a superb masseuse. It's oriental wizardry, I tell you. I honestly can't tell what she's doing sometimes.
4.) She smiles bigger and laughs louder than anyone i've ever known.
5.) She refers to me in the third person. Brilliant- i love it. She asks me, "How is Howell doing?" Just a sec- lemme ask...
6.) She confuses French words and grammar in her English. It's precious. Sometimes a sentence has English, French AND Vietnamese words in it. But i understand.
7.) When she orders noodle soup, she eats everything but the noodles.
8.) She does the coolest morning exercises that look like martial arts.
9.) She is a fantastic cook. That is, if you like French or Vietnamese food.
10.) and lastly, I can't trust anyone else to cut my hair.
2.) She sings vietnamese love songs in the shower.
3.) She is a superb masseuse. It's oriental wizardry, I tell you. I honestly can't tell what she's doing sometimes.
4.) She smiles bigger and laughs louder than anyone i've ever known.
5.) She refers to me in the third person. Brilliant- i love it. She asks me, "How is Howell doing?" Just a sec- lemme ask...
6.) She confuses French words and grammar in her English. It's precious. Sometimes a sentence has English, French AND Vietnamese words in it. But i understand.
7.) When she orders noodle soup, she eats everything but the noodles.
8.) She does the coolest morning exercises that look like martial arts.
9.) She is a fantastic cook. That is, if you like French or Vietnamese food.
10.) and lastly, I can't trust anyone else to cut my hair.
Monday, May 21, 2007
Na
My talked to Na on the phone the other day.
Na: "Where is Howell? I've not seen him around for a while!"
My: "He is traveling up north- you'll see him in june."
Na: "Oh- does he miss me?"
My: "I'm sure he does."
Na: "Good. You tell him to bring me some candy."
Candy it is.
Na: "Where is Howell? I've not seen him around for a while!"
My: "He is traveling up north- you'll see him in june."
Na: "Oh- does he miss me?"
My: "I'm sure he does."
Na: "Good. You tell him to bring me some candy."
Candy it is.
Northwest Mountains
The northwest mountains of Vietnam are home to several tribes of hill people who migrated down from China. They retain their own religions and languages, but you can speak to them in Vietnamese and some English.
Sapa town is flooded with Black H'mong, who are distinguished by their indigo-dyed clothing, cyllindrical hats, and leggings. Their costume is my favorite design of the hill people- sparse but striking.
When i got to Sapa it was raining buckets, so i spent the whole day waxing pathetic in my room, because there ain't nothing to do in Sapa when it's raining.
The next day though, the heavens opened up, the birds were harmonizing in thirds, and the glory of Sapa stretched for miles. I spent the whole day hiking in the Muong Hoa River Valley, visiting Black H'mong villages. Even though the rains had turned the terrain into what looked and felt like soggy quiche lorraine- and I was a virtual mudman for it, it was a very good day.
I also visited Bac Ha market, where all the hill folk congregate on Sundays to sell pigs and water buffalo. There i got to see the Flower H'mong, the Red Dzao and the Zay people. They all seem to get along pretty well. No fights that i saw. Check out the pictures of their clothes.
Sapa town is flooded with Black H'mong, who are distinguished by their indigo-dyed clothing, cyllindrical hats, and leggings. Their costume is my favorite design of the hill people- sparse but striking.
When i got to Sapa it was raining buckets, so i spent the whole day waxing pathetic in my room, because there ain't nothing to do in Sapa when it's raining.
The next day though, the heavens opened up, the birds were harmonizing in thirds, and the glory of Sapa stretched for miles. I spent the whole day hiking in the Muong Hoa River Valley, visiting Black H'mong villages. Even though the rains had turned the terrain into what looked and felt like soggy quiche lorraine- and I was a virtual mudman for it, it was a very good day.
I also visited Bac Ha market, where all the hill folk congregate on Sundays to sell pigs and water buffalo. There i got to see the Flower H'mong, the Red Dzao and the Zay people. They all seem to get along pretty well. No fights that i saw. Check out the pictures of their clothes.
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
The Fuzz
I've been pulled over a couple times in Hanoi. It seems I can't get away with what I do in Saigon. They don't really like the "toi khong biet" (i didn't know) excuse, either. The officials in Hanoi also aren't into Americans, so I try to keep that under wraps. I'll have to be more careful- no major problems yet.
Except yesterday I left my bike parked on the street next to the hotel and the police impounded it. I went down to the precinct and showed them the title, but they made me sit and wouldn't tell me why. The guys at the desk were just watching tv, doing nothing. To make matters worse, my bike was right there in the office. They knew it was mine too. So I asked them if i could have it back and they said to wait. For what? Gimme a ticket and let's go!
So I wait there for at least a half hour, and then I ask "when?" and they said some things i didn't understand. So I called My and asked her to talk to them. She started to ask them what was going on and they hung up on her. That was it for me.
My tactic then was to sit in the chair directly across from this man and stare at him. Not in a mean, theatening way, just staring. He wouldn't look at me and I could tell he was getting nervous. I was playing with fire i know, but he knew he was wrong, and I was fed up with him. After a few minutes he couldn't take it anymore and he unlocked the bike and let me go without a ticket.
I rule.
Except yesterday I left my bike parked on the street next to the hotel and the police impounded it. I went down to the precinct and showed them the title, but they made me sit and wouldn't tell me why. The guys at the desk were just watching tv, doing nothing. To make matters worse, my bike was right there in the office. They knew it was mine too. So I asked them if i could have it back and they said to wait. For what? Gimme a ticket and let's go!
So I wait there for at least a half hour, and then I ask "when?" and they said some things i didn't understand. So I called My and asked her to talk to them. She started to ask them what was going on and they hung up on her. That was it for me.
My tactic then was to sit in the chair directly across from this man and stare at him. Not in a mean, theatening way, just staring. He wouldn't look at me and I could tell he was getting nervous. I was playing with fire i know, but he knew he was wrong, and I was fed up with him. After a few minutes he couldn't take it anymore and he unlocked the bike and let me go without a ticket.
I rule.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
I went across town today to see my uncle Ho. They have him on display in a big glass coffin inside a huge monumental tomb. I really wished they allowed photos inside. The decor is a splendid blend of Roman pomp and socialist austerity, with tasteful and sparse vietnamese motifs mixed in with the brass and marble. Really well done, guys.
I was expecting Ho himself to look all horror-show, like the Millard Fillmore robot at the Hall of Presidents at Disney World, but he looks really good for being dead forty years. They have him bathed in a golden light, and his hands look like they might wave at any moment. Hey, Ho!
I did wonder though about how long they could actually keep him that way. I mean, is it possible that he could remain presentable forever? I also wondered about the strict dress code inside the tomb. What if you were one of those peasants that gave his all for the cause of the Communists, and you were denied access to your beloved leader because you couldn't afford shoes? That seems anti-socialist to me. At least there wasn't an entrance fee.
I was expecting Ho himself to look all horror-show, like the Millard Fillmore robot at the Hall of Presidents at Disney World, but he looks really good for being dead forty years. They have him bathed in a golden light, and his hands look like they might wave at any moment. Hey, Ho!
I did wonder though about how long they could actually keep him that way. I mean, is it possible that he could remain presentable forever? I also wondered about the strict dress code inside the tomb. What if you were one of those peasants that gave his all for the cause of the Communists, and you were denied access to your beloved leader because you couldn't afford shoes? That seems anti-socialist to me. At least there wasn't an entrance fee.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
My new Dan Bau
Oh happy day!
I found a sweet electric dan bau! It's a single-string instrument with a tremelo arm to change pitch. It's made of wood with mother-of-pearl inlaid fishermen and stuff. It has a pickup and a 1/4 inch jack so you can plug in. It folds up nice and they gave me a leather bag with a shoulder strap for easy portability. I can't wait to play it through an effects pedal.
Listen to how radible it sounds.
Metal.
I found a sweet electric dan bau! It's a single-string instrument with a tremelo arm to change pitch. It's made of wood with mother-of-pearl inlaid fishermen and stuff. It has a pickup and a 1/4 inch jack so you can plug in. It folds up nice and they gave me a leather bag with a shoulder strap for easy portability. I can't wait to play it through an effects pedal.
Listen to how radible it sounds.
Metal.
Hanoi Snapshot
Today I saw an image that sums Hanoi up for me-
an old man in bedroom slippers and silk pyjamas (with a pipe in the shirt pocket), wearing a beret and sunglasses. Damn. There aren't enough "o"s in "smooth" to say it right. "The Dude" would be proud.
an old man in bedroom slippers and silk pyjamas (with a pipe in the shirt pocket), wearing a beret and sunglasses. Damn. There aren't enough "o"s in "smooth" to say it right. "The Dude" would be proud.
Thousand-yard Stare
I realize that I might make it seem like traveling in Vietnam is delightful and easy. I want to clear that up- it's not.
If you like peace and quiet, cleanliness, things that smell good, things that work properly, being dry and comfortable, or getting your way more than 20% of the time, stay far away from here. This is a rough and unsophisticated country. People constantly try to bleed you of your money. Public transport is ridiculously slow and uncomfortable. No one ever does anything on time, if they do it at all.
I've gotten used to fighting for everything I want and practicing unlimited patience. My brain is totally rewired. When I look in the mirror, I notice the same hard, lean look I've seen in the local people. Sometimes I catch myself zoning out with that "thousand-yard stare" the marines talked about- just soon enough to jump out of the way of a pedal-cab.
It's all very rewarding though. I would never say it wasn't. Assuming I make it out...;)
If you like peace and quiet, cleanliness, things that smell good, things that work properly, being dry and comfortable, or getting your way more than 20% of the time, stay far away from here. This is a rough and unsophisticated country. People constantly try to bleed you of your money. Public transport is ridiculously slow and uncomfortable. No one ever does anything on time, if they do it at all.
I've gotten used to fighting for everything I want and practicing unlimited patience. My brain is totally rewired. When I look in the mirror, I notice the same hard, lean look I've seen in the local people. Sometimes I catch myself zoning out with that "thousand-yard stare" the marines talked about- just soon enough to jump out of the way of a pedal-cab.
It's all very rewarding though. I would never say it wasn't. Assuming I make it out...;)
Monday, May 14, 2007
Confession
Something happened a couple weeks ago that has shaken me terribly. I have been reluctant to talk about it because I didn't want people to worry, and the only reason I'm saying anything now is because I think there's something important to learn from it.
I almost killed a three-year-old girl.
I was driving home on a narrow stretch of road in Saigon, when a child I spotted on the side of the road (who I thought was going to stay on the side of the road) decided she wanted to be directly in front of me. I'll never forget the sound of that kid's head hitting the fender.
Within seconds a crowd of Vietnamese was around me. Her Dad was calm, but other people tried to talk to me, and I didn't understand. I was horrified. One kid looked at me like I just strangled his puppy. The look is branded on my mind.
Thankfully I didn't see any blood. The child was hysterical, though. I ending up riding the child and her father to the "hospital", a one room roadside shack. We had x-rays taken, and the father told me he wanted me to pay for the service. That was ok with me, because he was obviously poor. I noticed though, that he told me a figure higher than the actual bill. So he wanted something for punitive damage. Whatever.
Then, when all was ok, the child was quiet and in her mother's arms, the man basically extorted about $40 out of me. He said it was for medicine, even though I'd already paid for that. I didn't care though- I just wanted far away, and to be done with the whole nightmare. I would have paid much more.
Later though, I started to think about what happened, and correct me if you think I'm wrong. This man took advantage of a frightened foreigner and a frightened child to capitalize on the pain of his daughter and take money that wasn't coming to him. It was a pure accident, and he knew it- His hands were even shaking when I gave him the money.
I know poverty can sometimes make people do deplorable things -but shame on you, my friend.
I almost killed a three-year-old girl.
I was driving home on a narrow stretch of road in Saigon, when a child I spotted on the side of the road (who I thought was going to stay on the side of the road) decided she wanted to be directly in front of me. I'll never forget the sound of that kid's head hitting the fender.
Within seconds a crowd of Vietnamese was around me. Her Dad was calm, but other people tried to talk to me, and I didn't understand. I was horrified. One kid looked at me like I just strangled his puppy. The look is branded on my mind.
Thankfully I didn't see any blood. The child was hysterical, though. I ending up riding the child and her father to the "hospital", a one room roadside shack. We had x-rays taken, and the father told me he wanted me to pay for the service. That was ok with me, because he was obviously poor. I noticed though, that he told me a figure higher than the actual bill. So he wanted something for punitive damage. Whatever.
Then, when all was ok, the child was quiet and in her mother's arms, the man basically extorted about $40 out of me. He said it was for medicine, even though I'd already paid for that. I didn't care though- I just wanted far away, and to be done with the whole nightmare. I would have paid much more.
Later though, I started to think about what happened, and correct me if you think I'm wrong. This man took advantage of a frightened foreigner and a frightened child to capitalize on the pain of his daughter and take money that wasn't coming to him. It was a pure accident, and he knew it- His hands were even shaking when I gave him the money.
I know poverty can sometimes make people do deplorable things -but shame on you, my friend.
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Hanoi
Hanoi, the Rising Dragon. Lovely, lovely Hanoi.
If Saigon is the young, brash, sprawling Los Angeles of Vietnam, Hanoi is Vietnam's old New York. This town is a distilled, concentrated, high-octane crack-like substance of Parisian grace and vietnamese culture. It feels a lot like a medeival European city. It is absolutely gorgeous. Hanoi has already earned its place as one of my favorite cities in the world.
The shopping is top notch. Trendy boutiques are housed in crumbling French colonial buildings, and the street food is to die for.
I have found many little antique stores in winding back alleys, and after frequent visits, i have amassed an impressive opium pipe collection. One is shaped like an elephant!
I also found a shop that sells original HAND PAINTED communist propaganda posters. You can see the pencil lines. I stood there drooling for over an hour. I bought a reproduction of one that depicts Vietnam's ill-fated space program. It has this vietnamese astronaut with a fanciful, ridiculous, seventies-style space station in the background. I'm happier than a pig in shit.
My had to get back to work, by the way. I'm on my own until China.
If Saigon is the young, brash, sprawling Los Angeles of Vietnam, Hanoi is Vietnam's old New York. This town is a distilled, concentrated, high-octane crack-like substance of Parisian grace and vietnamese culture. It feels a lot like a medeival European city. It is absolutely gorgeous. Hanoi has already earned its place as one of my favorite cities in the world.
The shopping is top notch. Trendy boutiques are housed in crumbling French colonial buildings, and the street food is to die for.
I have found many little antique stores in winding back alleys, and after frequent visits, i have amassed an impressive opium pipe collection. One is shaped like an elephant!
I also found a shop that sells original HAND PAINTED communist propaganda posters. You can see the pencil lines. I stood there drooling for over an hour. I bought a reproduction of one that depicts Vietnam's ill-fated space program. It has this vietnamese astronaut with a fanciful, ridiculous, seventies-style space station in the background. I'm happier than a pig in shit.
My had to get back to work, by the way. I'm on my own until China.
Friday, May 11, 2007
My's Dad in Cambodia
My's Dad is a tough guy. Back when he was a policeman, he was something of a cowboy. Being a policeman in Hue during the war meant you could do basically whatever you wanted and get away with it. My's Dad killed several people- criminals, and some that just pissed him off. People were (and still are) very scared of him. One time he was drunk and got jealous about something his friend said about My's mom, and he chased the man around with a knife, actually stabbing him a couple times. My's Dad is a really nice guy, but if you piss him off, he will KILL YOU.
The other day we found out that the wife of My's cousin took the family savings and ran off with a guy to Cambodia. Whenever something important needs to be sorted out in the Nguyen family, you bring out the big guns- My's Dad.
Right now, My's Dad is on his way to Cambodia. Heaven help those people.
The other day we found out that the wife of My's cousin took the family savings and ran off with a guy to Cambodia. Whenever something important needs to be sorted out in the Nguyen family, you bring out the big guns- My's Dad.
Right now, My's Dad is on his way to Cambodia. Heaven help those people.
Hien
My's baby sister Hien just finished high school, and she's entering college. In Vietnam, high school graduates take a test that will determine what they study and what they will eventually do for work. You don't get to choose your major. What your job will be depends on your skills and the needs of Vietnam. Hien is going to be a nurse.
But she probably won't actually become a nurse, because she's engaged to a rich French guy. They will probably move to Paris, and Hien will become a professional shopper. Not what uncle Ho had in mind.
But she probably won't actually become a nurse, because she's engaged to a rich French guy. They will probably move to Paris, and Hien will become a professional shopper. Not what uncle Ho had in mind.
Flattery
Here in Vietnam, you use different pronouns to refer to different people depending on their age. That means there are many words for "you".
When i talk to women, i like to call them a pronoun that implies an age bracket that is younger than the age they obviously are. They LOVE it. They smile and laugh, and sometimes they hit me in the arm.
Hoogo, you charmer- free noodles for the white boy!
When i talk to women, i like to call them a pronoun that implies an age bracket that is younger than the age they obviously are. They LOVE it. They smile and laugh, and sometimes they hit me in the arm.
Hoogo, you charmer- free noodles for the white boy!
Pooc len
I was playing with a vietnamese globe the other day, interested to see what vietnamese call different places. I now know how to write some American cities in vietnamese.
So if some vietnamese guy comes up to you and asks you where you come from, those of you from Portland can look him right in the eye and say, "I'm from Pooc len, in the good ol' Hoa of Ky!"
So if some vietnamese guy comes up to you and asks you where you come from, those of you from Portland can look him right in the eye and say, "I'm from Pooc len, in the good ol' Hoa of Ky!"
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Halong Bay
Oh my. Yes, Halong Bay is amazing.
There are over 2000 karst islands jutting up out of the quiet water, creating a labyrinth where you could have the ultimate game of hide and seek. The water is calm ,and is perfect for kayaking. My and I spent a few days cruising the bay, kayaking into caves and swimming in the clear, warm water. We spent the night on the deck of a junk, counting stars. Trying to get My to correctly pronounce "constellation" was endlessly amusing.
I can't say enough about this place. I could stay here for months.
There are over 2000 karst islands jutting up out of the quiet water, creating a labyrinth where you could have the ultimate game of hide and seek. The water is calm ,and is perfect for kayaking. My and I spent a few days cruising the bay, kayaking into caves and swimming in the clear, warm water. We spent the night on the deck of a junk, counting stars. Trying to get My to correctly pronounce "constellation" was endlessly amusing.
I can't say enough about this place. I could stay here for months.
Friday, May 04, 2007
Di Choi
So i was galavanting around the central highlands when i got a call from My.
"Honey oi! I am so boring!"
"You're not boring , babe. You're bored."
"Same same."
"No, not same same. You're anything but boring."
"Whatever Honey says. I want to di choi (travel) with you."
So i rocketed up to Hoi An to meet up with My for a week. I love Hoi An. It's a sleepy old seaside trading town with great old architecture. It's like stepping back in time 400 years. I can't get enough of it , actually. Eating Chao Vit ( duck rice soup) on the street by candlelight (no electricity) among these ancient houses is an increidble experience.
So if you don't hear from me, I'm hanging with the girl for a bit. cheers.
"Honey oi! I am so boring!"
"You're not boring , babe. You're bored."
"Same same."
"No, not same same. You're anything but boring."
"Whatever Honey says. I want to di choi (travel) with you."
So i rocketed up to Hoi An to meet up with My for a week. I love Hoi An. It's a sleepy old seaside trading town with great old architecture. It's like stepping back in time 400 years. I can't get enough of it , actually. Eating Chao Vit ( duck rice soup) on the street by candlelight (no electricity) among these ancient houses is an increidble experience.
So if you don't hear from me, I'm hanging with the girl for a bit. cheers.
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