Wednesday, February 28, 2007

My, Mon Coeur


Mon Coeur
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.

So here's My. She hates the camera, so i have to take bandit shots. I uploaded another pic on flickr.

She studied voice at Saigon Conservatory, and cosmotology in Paris, so consequently she sings like a bird while she coiffs a mean do. She gave me the best haircut of my life without me saying a word, and her sisters gave me a MAN-icure and a pedicure. Man, i look sharp.

By the way, a vietnamese shampoo is amazing. It's more like a head,face,arm massage for at least 25 minutes. I was transported to an alternate dimension.

Afterwards her brother the tailor came over to take my measurements for my sharkskin suit. My said, "I want you to look like James Bond, mon cherie."

I'm on my way.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Vietnamese Wedding

I went to a wedding of a friend of My's yesterday (sorry still no pic of her, soon i promise). It was alot like a western wedding , except they hired singers and dancers dresed up in traditional clothes. There were people dressed like dragons too. There were maybe 12 courses of food at the reception. So much food, i had to stop by course #5. One of the courses was a giant baked fish. My whispered to the server that I REALLY like the head- I mean, REALLY love fish heads. When the server set my plate down in front of me with that fish staring up at me, My laughed so hard, she actually peed herself.

My Apartment


My apartment
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
Well she ain't much to look at, but she's home. I live in District one, which includes downtown and the adjacent De Tham area, which is where i live. It's been a struggle to get what i need. The ADSL internet is coming, but not without a fight. The AC remote keeps giving me problems, and My has been bitching out the landlord about charging me too much. That's my girl, tough as nails.

I got a cellphone, and the number is 0903063092 if you want to talk to me. I'd love to hear from you of course. Remember though that i'm 15 hours ahead of Pacific time. So if it's 1 PM there, it's 4 AM here.

Ubiquitous Saigon Sights Pt. 2

1)

Schoolgirls
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.

The Schoolgirls: These girls all wear a white ao dai, and they all gather in front of my apartment every day like a flock of white birds to talk and eat lunch.

2) The Unibomber Ladies: In vietnam, it is generally considered more beautiful to have light skin. So consequently, there are women who are so afraid of getting a tan that they cover up head to toe during the day. They wear a hooded sweatshirt, gloves, bandanna over their mouths and sunglasses. It looks like they are sweltering.

3) The Game Guys: These men spend all day outside my apartment and on the street playing a weird version of that Milton Bradley game Sorry!. Every morning i wake up to the sound of dice being repeatedly tossed into a ceramic bowl. I'm actually listening to it right now.

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Chinese Menu

My and i went to a chinese restaurant last night, and we got to laughing at some of the menu items. There was "bowel fish soup", "minced cuckoo porridge", "pig brain noodle cake", "dinky rolls", "roast porcupine w/ fish balls", and my personal favorite, "braised pig's pizzle in a hot pot".

I asked My what a pizzle was. It's exactly what you think it is.

Saturday, February 24, 2007

Address

I have an address now, so please send me something! It would mean a whole lot.

Howell Golson
207 Bui Vien Str. B408
District 1 , HCM CITY VIETNAM

The official name, since 1975, of Saigon is Ho Chi Minh City. No one calls it that.

I bought a computer yesterday, and i'll get internet sometime real soon. I also bought a microphone so i can talk to people using Skype. So if anybody wants to talk with me for free, lemme know.

Also, i have two bedrooms, one of which is yours when you come visit...

My 3

My is an inventive and brazen trickster.

She can spit water through her teeth to incredible distances. So periodically on the street she will take water in her mouth and spit on the back of some poor guy's neck like 15 feet away. And while the guy is trying to figure out what the hell just hit him, she's staring off elsewhere with a deadpan expression, straw in mouth.

When we're at a club, she'll go up to the transvestite in the corner without my knowledge and tell him/her that I'm way into him/her. Then the guy/girl comes up to me and starts hitting on me hard, in vietnamese of course. As I'm standing there, confused and uncomfortable as hell, i notice My over by the ladies' room, laughing at me. By the time i can get to her to give her a beating, she's slipped into sanctuary.

If i have time, I'm going to go with My and her ma to visit her aunt in Hue, the old imperial capital of Vietnam. I swear i'll get pictures of My at some point- It doesn't appear she's going anywhere.

Friday, February 23, 2007

Ubiquitous Saigon Sights

These are the people in my neighborhood:

1) The Gum Ladies- The gum ladies all look the same. They are always wearing pyjamas and carrying a small child. When they get close to you, they shove a stack of gum packages in your face. They all want $20,000 dong per pack. It's always gum, and always the same brand.

2) The Squid Guy- the squid guy rides a bicycle around all night with a sort of clothesline contraption on the back with a bunch of dried squid pinned to it, always looking for customers. Don't quit your day job, dude.

3) The Bar Girls- The Bar girls get really excited if you come anywhere near the perimeter of their bar. Sometimes they yell, and sometimes they physically drag you in. They try to get you to buy them expensive drinks, and many of them are prostitutes. They usually range from un- to subtacular looking.

4) The Book Girls- The book girls carry unbelievably high stacks of books around for sale and if you stand still for two seconds in my neighborhood, you will most certainly be approached by one.

5) The Moto Taxi driver- This species' mating call is "You!You!motobai!", which he calls out while pointing at you and snapping his fingers. He always wants to take you somewhere. Even if you say no thanks, he says, "Where you go? Binh Thanh? Ngyuen Hue? De Tham? Come let's go..." You just have to keep walking. He doesn't persist for long.

6) Mr. Coconut- A Mr. Coconut always has a cone hat on, and always has a pole with a bucket of coconuts on either end that he carries around on his shoulders. Man, if you want a coconut, he's your man. He'll hack that sucker up for you before you can blink.

To be continued...

Thursday, February 22, 2007

My pt. 2

I LOVE this town.

Last night, My and I went to a hip french restaurant/jazz club that her friend Florent manages. Florent is a Parisien who moved to Saigon with his Paris-born vietnamese wife, Marie. They are very cool, and i look forward to hanging with them again soon. At dinner, My and i fed each other roast duck in port sauce on the balcony overlooking Dong Khoi street, and whenever My's phone rang she spoke in French , thinking i couldn't understand... "...oui...oui, c'est bon!"

After dinner My, Florent, Marie and I lazed on the sofas sipping cognac and listened to the band, and later we went to a great club that had giant Moebius drawings covering the walls, which made me of all people very happy.

I am smitten with My. She is smart, worldly, bitingly funny, and just beautiful. And for some reason, she wants to be around me. Tomorrow she is helping me find things to furnish my new apartment with. That's the other news, i got an apartment. Address coming soon.

Last night just before i went home, My for some crazy reason said, "You are cool guy. I am not cool."

I beg to differ, mon cherie.

My

This info was promised as exclusive to Vesper, but i can't help myself- so sorry v, i promise you many juicy bits to come.

To offset the Hieu experience, i met a girl named My (mee). She has more class than i can handle. She speaks fluent French, has a delightful British accent, and what's more, she's stunning. She took me to her friend's birthday party the other night, and afterwards we shared fruit shakes and cut through the night on her vespa. This girl sparkles, y'all. I am transfixed. I have a date with her tonight, and if that goes well, i'm bringing her home to mom.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Weirdo Magnet

I don't know why weirdos are so attracted to me. Maybe it's my deodorant.

The other day i was taking pictures of a house when a guy came out of it and started talking to me. His name is Hieu and he's a motorcycle mechanic. He invited me in and served up some candied ginger. Then , with hardly any segue way, he drags me upstairs to show me his extensive Chinese porn collection. I don't know how we got to that- one moment he's showing me pictures of his dead dad's funeral, and the next we're in an upstairs room with drying laundry on lines watching a poor girl get thoroughly abused on a little tv. And as if that wasn't inappropriate enough, he suddenly unzips his pants to show me the glass beads he had implanted on either side of his dangle. Hieu, you charmer.

Later, he insisted on having a drink, and i figured i'd seen the worst, so i didn't resist. As we drank, Hieu pointed out which girls in the bar would steal your money while you slept if you took them home. In addition to that jewel, I learned alot of other practical information vital to those considering becoming a thug.

Despite my protests, Hieu kept on ordering us drinks on my tab, so we started getting pretty drunk. I was kind of annoyed at this, but Hieu seemed harmless enough. Plus, you haven't done anything until you've sat in the back of a dark, steamy Saigon dive after closing playing cards with a shirtless, one-armed veteran of the Vietnamese/Cambodian war, a street hooker who's fallen asleep in a potted plant, and a drunk, crazy, surgically altered motorcycle mechanic.

Mean Streets of Saigon

Most of the day, the streets here are like a giant moving carpet of motorbikes. There are millions. The drivers are fast and erratic, and there are very few traffic signals. Everyone just seems to know how to make it all work. And it does. Unlike in Bangkok, where you sit in a deadlock for 20 minutes, only to be able to go for 5 before sitting for another 20, there are absolutely no traffic jams here. The traffic always moves, like a stream.

Crossing the street takes guts. The trick is to start walking at an even pace and don't stop. Any sudden movements or stops could be fatal. It's a leap of faith. But it's the only way.

You aren't even safe from the motorbikes on the sidewalk. These people ride all over the place- sidewalks, alleys, into buildings, everywhere. The whole system seems extremely chaotic and unstructured, but it's proof that sometimes the best system is none at all, and it's a cool feeling to know that no matter what, it takes exactly four minutes for me to get downtown.

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

The War Remnants Museum

This museum should actually be called the "look at all the terrible shit America did to us during this war aren't they assholes" museum.

It has a fervent and obvious anti-american slant. I read though that it's actually been toned down a bit in the past several years. For example, the "Hall of American War Crimes" is now the "Historic Truths" wing. A scathing euphemism- touche! I love that.

Exhibits include accounts of the My Lai Massacre, as well as lesser known massacres, and more wrong stuff allegedly done by American soldiers. The most disheartening section though is the exhibit on the effects of Agent Orange on the environment and the people. Not only did it destroy and poison the land, it caused blindness, mental problems, and deformations in the children of the victims.

Standing there looking at the pictures of deformed vietnamese, i had a sudden and shocking realization. These people in these pictures are the same people i see all over Saigon, crawling through the streets on their hands, looking to me to put money in the cups they grip in their mouths. And then i felt sick.

I know i'm not responsible for this. I was born after the fall of Saigon. But by the same token i feel sort of accountable. It's a feeling i haven't quite put my finger on yet. Mark Twain once said, "Support your country all the time, and your government only when it deserves it." But some of the ideologies of country and government are inextricable. It leaves me really confused.

I really wish those people could stand on their own feet like I can though.

Monday, February 19, 2007

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!


Lanterns at night
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
Tet is tiring... But the party must go on.

Nguyen Hue Road has been turned into a traditional rural vietnamese village, complete with rice fields and millions of flowers. There are swarms of Saigonites all over the streets at all times of the day and night. Last night there was a giant sticky rice cake downtown that weighed 1.2 tons. It fed over 200,000 people. There are musical acts, guys who fold rice stalks into grasshoppers, art exhibitions, traditional dancing, fireworks...

Today i went to Anh's house for a Tet lunch. She lives in a tiny house (apartment) with her two sisters, her mother, father and grandmother. The living room doubles as An's bedroom, as well as garage for their scooters. Oh, and there's a piano in there too.

Anh's parents moved from Hanoi in 1975 as part of the governmental plan to reconstruct and "re-educate" the south after the war. So Anh's ma made northern vietnamese food. We had a sticky rice cake with pork in it, some kind of pork bologna loaf thing, chicken glass noodle soup, and this fruit called a milk apple, which is kind of like an apple, but the inside is gooey and tastes like sweet milk.

Anh has this habit of forcing me to eat stuff. Several times during a meal, she'll point at something and say, "Eat all that." And i'll balk, and she says, "You should eat all that." She won't take no for an answer. I don't know yet if it's just her, or if it's a vietnamese thing.

Tet officially ends tonight, but people don't actually go back to work for a few more days. I hope the businesses open soon, because soon i'm going to need to get to work.

Friday, February 16, 2007

Ao dai


Hawt!
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
Not content with already being some of the most attractive creatures on earth, vietnamese women gild the lily by wearing the ao dai (pronounced "ow zai"), quite possibly the most flattering thing a girl could wear. The long sleeved dress splits above the waist, and is complemented by loose silk pants. Throw in some heels and i'm yours.

Another plus is that they don't need any occasion to wear it. They wear them casually. There's a girl that works at my hotel that wears a sport training jacket over hers, which might sound strange, but she looks way cool.

Thursday, February 15, 2007

Yum?

I've eaten some weird things over here. I can't even tell you what alot of it was. I've eaten grasshoppers and spiders. I've eaten chicken feet, and i had to pick the claws out of my teeth. I've eaten eyeballs of an unidentified animal. Chicken bladder kabobs...

Here in Vietnam they eat everything. Dogs, cats, snakes, frogs. They drink animal blood. In the market i saw a huge basket filled with hundreds of chicken heads, and a table piled high with pig faces. They peel the pig's face off, ears and all. mmm...pig face. gimme!

Today i went out walking around town with Anh, her sister An, and her other sister Anh ( i'm not making this up). Anh (the first one) pointed out a stall where a man was selling eggs. She said, "do you like duck egg?"? I said sure. Turns out there's a duck fetus in there. People crack it open, pour a little fish sauce on his head, and slurp him up. I don't think i'll be eating that.

I asked Anh what it tastes like. She said, "you ever have pig brain? Kinda like pig brain."

Oh.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Vive la Indochine!

I've only been in Vietnam for a day, and i already LOVE it. Whereas Bangkok, in my humble opinion, amounts to little more than a giant shitbox, Saigon is ON FIRE. The economy is taking off, and the energy is palpable. The old and the new collide head-on, and i love the refinement and cosmopolitan feel. Women in ao dai (vietnamese dresses) and cone hats stroll down tree-lined boulevards, stately french colonial buildings are punctuated by palm trees and hammer-and-sickle flags, and the cafes that line the parks combine french class with vietnamese style, while serving incredible food. There is art everywhere, and i've heard tell of a kicking music scene. I'm proud to live here! Saigon, me love you long time!

Phnom Penh


SEXY Phnom Penh!
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
Cambodia has been through hell. And from the looks of it, it's still there, but everything's relative. Civil war and the terror of the Khmer Rouge basically destroyed this country. They are desperately trying to build on nothing.

When the Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh in 1975, many people cheered, because they were sick of the five year civil war between the Loyalists and the Communists. The terror had yet to start.

In a paranoid frenzy, The Khmer Rouge abolished currency, schools, closed all stores. They separated families, and sent most everyone out to the country and forced them to farm, giving them very little food. About one fifth of the population died from this rough treatment during the four yours the Khmer Rouge was in power.

When the Vietnamese finally liberated Phnom Penh in 1979, they discovered unimaginable horrors. The Khmer Rouge had been operating a torture and extermination facility out of a former high school, called Tuol Sleng, or S-21. They had rounded up thousands upon thousands of people who were educated or skilled and horribly tortured them to confess to political crimes. Then they killed them. The facility was founded solely to extract confessions, whether true or not, and dispose of the enemies of the state. Of the hundreds of thousands of Cambodian men, women and children interred at S-21, only 12 survived. And hardly any of them knew why they were there.

The prison is still there, and it's chilling. I hardly wanted to walk into the cells, i was so repulsed. The Khmer Rouge, like the Nazis, kept meticulous records, and photographed all the prisoners. There's a gallery of many of those pictures. The people look so confused and so scared.

What happens to people that makes them so cruel? How damaged do you have to be to hurt people like that? How is that damage prevented?

Monday, February 12, 2007

Komphong Phhluk


Komphong Phhluk
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
After treating him to several drinks one night in Siem Reap, my friend Bunnak drunkenly said he would take me to his village, Komphong Phhluk, the next day. I held him to it.

Komphong Phhluk is a fishing village on the Tonle Sap lake. The water levels fluctuate so drastically that the people have to build their houses 30 or 40 feet in the air. The visual effect is really cool.

We rode about an hour or so on Bunnak's bike on the most horrible road ever. In fact, this road recently won Grand Jury Prize at the Shitty Roads of the World Expo 2006. I just read that Cambodia's roads are in the running for the worst in the world. I believe it.

But when we got in the boat and chugged down river, the reception was breathtaking. The sun was just coming up and everyone was out fishing- men, women, kids, grandma- everybody. Everything is on stilts here, even the pig pens! They build pens out of bamboo in the water to keep fish that they caught, and wooden ones to keep crocodiles. They eat crocodiles i suppose. I hung out with Bunnak's folks and played with kids. They tried to see how many of them could hang off one of my arms until i fell over. I think i made it to four.

Yez...

I love it when I ask a Cambodian guy if he speaks English- and when he says "yez", i ask him where something is. And he will smile and nod and say, "yez...yez."

Angkor


Angkor Wat
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
I must have explored every square inch of this place. I even found the fabled crown of Indra. Ok no i didn't. But if it was there, i would have.

I am tireless at this stuff. I get up before sunrise, pack some food and water, and you don't see me till after sunset. Fourteen hours straight. When others falter, get overheated, tire of climbing steps, Howell is going strong. When i'm done with one temple(impossible! i could stay forever!), it's back on the bike, scooting off to another.

At night there's only time for a quick beer and fish amok ( fish in coconut and ginger gravy in a banana leaf) and off to bed to wake up and do it again. And that's how i like it.

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Crap for sale!


Crap for sale!
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
The vendors around here are relentless. They'll follow you forever. If you tell them you don't need one, they say, "no, you need TWO!" After telling this girl for the eleventy-hundreth time i don't want a scarf, she tried to sell me this other kid for 1 riel, which if it actually existed, would be worth 1/400th of a cent.

Transcription of sales pitch:

Sir! You want cold dlink? good price for you! Sir! Sir! Postcard 10 for dollar...Sir! cold dlink... Sir? you buy from me! You say you buy from me! Sir- you make me sad! (whine) I need dollar go to school (pout) Sir! Sir? Sir! Buy one from me! (shouting) You buy from her now you buy from me! this way! 20 for dollar! No mama no papa , go to school Sir! You want something eat? Sir! You want something eat? Sir?

And on, And on, and on... and this from three or four people at once.

The kids also try to wow you with their knowledge of your country. When i say i'm from America, they all say "ohhh, big country! Capitol Washington DC!" And you're supposed to be all impressed and give them money. When they ask me where i'm from, i like to say, "Americabigcountrycapitolwashingtondc". The look on their faces is priceless. They have nothing else to say.

Saturday, February 10, 2007

Beng Mealea


Monk outside Beng Mealea
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
I can attach any number of superlatives to Angkor Wat, and i did turn the water works on more than once, but my favorite of all temples in the Angkor area is Beng Mealea (Water Flower). That puts it in the running of coolest place on Earth, in my book. It is an hour and a half from Angkor by motorbike, in the middle of pretty much nowhere.

The best things about Beng Mealea is that 1) it's totally untouched, and 2) there's nobody there. No one has cleared anything, or attempted to reconstruct anything. And you can climb all over it. There's no liability here, and Cambodia is so happy to get your money, they let you do whatever the hell you want. Me and my guide crawled through tunnels, climbed up fallen stones, scrambled up vines and trees to get on top of and down walls, and squeezed through gaps in the masonry to get to otherwise inaccessible chambers and subtemples. When my guide left, i explored the place for hours. It's just like Tomb Raider. And i love it.

It's a good thing though that the place was cleared of landmines by the Cambodian government. The Khmer Rouge Used Beng Mealea as a stronghold during the eighties, and the perimeter was heavily mined. My guide showed me holes in the ground that were caused by exploding mines. People hunting or foraging had set them off.

I have a bunch more pictures, but i will upload when i get to Phnom Penh.

Friday, February 09, 2007

Angkor

I am dumbstruck. I have not, nor do i hope to ever see anything as cool as Angkor. It is without any doubt the most impressive place i have ever been. Hands down.

This place is a wonderland for artists/archaeologists. All i've done for the past couple days is explore temples and draw and photograph them. I climb mountain-temples, find amazing carvings, explore passageways, climb over rubble to discover new chambers and carvings, roost in high niches, climb towers, follow stone walls to find gates in the jungle, and DRAW. I am living my dream. There is nothing else i want in this world.

I don't want to leave. ever. I need to find a nice Khmer girl to marry so i can stay forever. She doesn't even need to be nice. Hell, she doesn't even need to be a girl. I'm easy.

I would attach pictures now, but the internet here is so slow, i could probably hire a bike courier to bring them to you faster. soon.

The Plan

So the Vietnam visa went through, so it is a reality that i'll be living in Vietnam. My friend Anh said she would help me find a good place. I want a room in a french colonial building with a balcony. Can't wait for fresh baguettes every morning either. And good coffee too, instead of this Nescafe crap everyone serves around here. Anyhow, i'm getting ahead of myself. First, i need to get to Saigon for Tet. Tet is like Christmas, 4th of July, Thanksgiving and everyone's birthday all rolled together. The vietnamese go absolutely nuts for a week. No one works. They just party all day every day. Fireworks, dragons, flowers, food, drink! I can't wait.

By the way, I'll be extending my trip until at least june, unless i really like Saigon, in which case i'll be here indefinitely.

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

The Kingdom of Cambodia

Road-weary and dirty, i walked across the Thai/Cambodian border into the unruly and unkempt border town of Poipet, alone and powerful- like Mother Theresa must've looked in her thirties. I met up with a Swede and a Swiss who wanted to share a cab into Siem Reap. It's odd- i've met many Swiss people before, old and young, and i've yet to meet an ugly Swiss girl. They must sell them all to Austria.

The road to Siem Reap is not paved. The potholes and ruts are atrocious. The dust is blinding. The traffic system nonexistent. Yet, our driver still maintained a constant 50 mph speed. The drive takes three and a half hours one way, and the driver said he does the drive twice a day. Sir, you are a better man than me.

List of Regulations in Cambodian hotel room:

1. No explosive things.
2. Do not sex children.
3. No large guns.
4. No smoking.

Sunday, February 04, 2007

Umphang


Umphang
Originally uploaded by toy ghost.
"I've dined with kings, I've been offered wings,
and I've never been too impressed." - Bob Dylan

I used to think that was a real bad-ass thing to say. I thought it seemed cool and stoic to walk through life unaffected. That attitude is linked to that self-involved "I am" conceit the Buddha talked about, and i've come to realize that it causes numbness and stagnation. I never want to run out of things i treasure and respect. As long as there are places like Umphang, i have faith it will never happen. It's a place i wouldn't mind dying- alone or with you.

Me, Sing, Gyo and Oo (told you she follows me everywhere) packed up the truck , armed ourselves with dried fish snacks and hit the road to Umphang in Western Tak. Western Tak is wildly mountainous and heavily forested. The drive was a five hour hike through the most windy mountain roads i've ever been on. Folks, you gotta REALLY want to go to Umphang. Sing and I shared the back of the truck with a rear axle of another truck, and shivered like fools when the sun went down. It's COLD up there. The only relief from the cold was when we literally drove THROUGH a forest fire. No fire service out here. They just let them burn out.

In the morning i saw why we came. We woke up in some huts by the Klong river. Before i knew it we were rafting down it, past strange fruit trees, magical birds, 4 foot-long pea pods with peas the size of crabapples, waterfalls, and forests of vines. It is simply amazing. Rainbows in the waterfalls, y'all. We stopped off at some hot springs that feed the river and took a dip. A few hours later we came to Thailand's biggest waterfall, Thilawsu. It's quite amazing. Awe-inspiring. If you're ever in the area, Umphang is totally worth the trip. Didn't see any elephants, but it doesn't matter. I've seen elephants before. Umphang rules. Just go look at the pics.

I've dined with kings, and i accept the wings graciously.

Wish Cotton was a Monkey

I say that to myself when i have something or i'm in a situation that i wish was something else.

There was a Little Rascals episode where the gang all went camping, and Stymie's ma made him take his little brother Cotton along. The other kids were annoyed, because Cotton was a "little kid". Stymie also had this obsession with monkeys in this episode. That night, when Stymie and Cotton were sleeping in their sleeping bag, Stymie was rubbing Cotton's little head, repeating dreamily, "wish Cotton was a monkey....wish Cotton was a monkey..."

Chiang Mai is a cool town. I like the multicutural feel, and the energy is nice. It was cool to see the Chinese muslims (i didn't know there were Chinese Muslims) from Yunnan province and eat their food. The design of the town is great too, and the temples are beautiful. But i also have a heightened sensitivity toward anything that approaches commercial tourism, and this place is geared for it. Seeing white folk at every intersection squinting at street signs and holding maps is unappealing to me. And feeling like a walking ATM kinda blows. I found myself thinking about Wang Hin- the quiet nights, the songs, the folks, my kids. Don't get me wrong, i liked Chiang Mai, and everyone should go there, even you. Chiang Mai is great, but-

Wish Cotton was a monkey.